Wallingford: a brief history


Wallingford

Contents Ancient settlement Viking fire 1066 and all that Wallingford Castle Parliament 1154 Black Death Civil War destruction Notable residents


Although now a modest town of about 7000 inhabitants, Wallingford played a very important and interesting part in British history. As with most of the towns along the banks of the Thames, Wallingford's location owes much to the fact that here the river was shallow enough to cross or 'ford'. The building of a bridge at this crossing point on the river ensured that Wallingford became an important military and commercial centre.

Ancient settlement
The original settlement at Wallingford dates back to the dawn of British history, when its founders showed a remarkable amount of discrimination in choosing its site. Nestling in a fertile valley on the river banks, it was an ideal place for fishing, agriculture and the rearing of cattle. The ancient trackways ­ in particular the Icknield Way ­ gave it lines of communication converging on its ford. The remains of the ramparts, which still surround the town, are the successors of the rudimentary fortifications of the old British settlement, and were adapted in turn by Roman, Saxon and Norman conquerors.

Viking fire
The Danish invaders of AD871 were defeated nearby, at Aston Down, but in 1006 the Danish King Sweyn burnt and almost destroyed the town. It was rebuilt two generations later by King Edward the Confessor.

1066 and all that
The strategic importance of the town and its bridge over the Thames was never more apparent than during the Norman invasion over 900 years ago. William, victorious at the battle of Hastings in October 1066, then marched his army northwards to capture London, but was strongly repulsed at Southwark on the southern bank of the Thames. Frustrated by the natural obstacle of the river, William promptly marched his army almost fifty miles upstream to cross the Thames at Wallingford. The army then marched back to London on the northern side of the river, and entered the city unopposed. William was crowned King of England in Westminster Abbey on 25 December 1066.

Wallingford Castle
Wallingford Castle ­ begun in 1067 and finished in 1071, complete with three water-filled moats ­ for centuries played a part in English history, at various times being turned into a fortress, royal residence and a state prison (see also 'Civil War destruction' that follows for more information about Wallingford Castle). In its heyday it was one of the most important castles in England. During the civil war between Queen Matilda and King Stephen the castles on the Thames were of great strategic importance, and it was to Wallingford Castle that the Queen fled over the frozen river after her dramatic escape from Oxford. The Treaty of Wallingford, in 1153, concluded the war. If you are interested in castles then Castles on the Web will take you to an excellent collection of castles from around the world.

Parliament 1154
For some hundreds of years Wallingford was a town of great importance. King Henry II held his first Parliament there in 1154, and in the next year he presented the great Charter to the town, thus officially recognising it as one of the earliest English boroughs.

Black Death
The town suffered severely as a result of the Black Death of 1349 and some ninety years later only forty-four houses remained. During the reign of King Henry VIII the Priory was dissolved (the proceeds helping to establish Christ Church College, Oxford), and the great bridge over the Thames fell into disrepair, but under his daughter, Queen Elizabeth, the fortunes of the borough revived.

Civil War destruction
The Civil War of 1642­6 brought great destruction upon the town. Wallingford was occupied by supporters of King Charles I and besieged by Parliamentary forces under the command of Sir Thomas Fairfax. Much damage, mostly from fires, was caused in the town; Oxford, Abingdon and Reading had fallen, Charles had fled northwards. The besieged Royalists, under Colonel Blagge, held out in Wallingford Castle for sixteen weeks before negotiating an honourable surrender in July 1646. The Castle was then demolished stone by stone on the personal order of Oliver Cromwell; all that now remains are the ruins of a tower facing the river, a small section of the hall overlooking the northern moat, the massive earthworks and a castle mound.

It is planned to mark the 350th anniversary of the siege by holding a re-enactment of the siege of Wallingford Castle over the weekend of 27­28 July 1996. This will be a spectacular and noisy occasion involving over one thousand volunteer soldiers in full period battle-dress, complete with flags, drums, horses, swords, pikes, muskets and cannon.

From that time the town's importance began slowly to decline, such that it became a centre for largely local industry and trade. A disastrous fire in 1675 destroyed many of the old houses. However, despite the ravages of war, plague, fire and famine, Wallingford still retains much architecture of the Middle Ages. Of the remaining links with the past, Wallingford's great bridge over the Thames must take pride of place. The magnificent stone bridge is similar to the old London Bridge. Both bridges have nineteen arches, and Wallingford Bridge is 900 feet long ­ 15 feet shorter than the old London Bridge.

Notable residents
Wallingford's most celebrated recent inhabitant was the mystery crime writer, Agatha Christie. Dame Agatha died in 1976 and was buried in the village of Cholsey, just outside Wallingford. The surrounding area is home to actors Jeremy Irons (Watlington) and Michael Caine (North Stoke), and ex-Beatle George Harrison (Henley-on-Thames). Another nearby village, Moulsford, is home to Kevin Maxwell, son of the late Robert Maxwell (but that is another story altogether).


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